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Shirts Dress shirts can make or break a fine suit. Fine quality shirts are made of 100 percent cotton. Shirt collars must balance the shape of the face. A long narrow-spread collar will accentuate a thin, elongated face. A rounded collar will accentuate a rounded face. Counterbalance with a medium to long point-spread collar. The correct height for a properly fitted shirt collar is about one-half inch above the jacket collar. The cuff of a shirt should always be seen when wearing a jacket, with approximately one-quarter to one-half inch showing. Heavy Men Accentuate vertical lines. Choose chalk stripes and herringbones over plaids and solids. Clothes should be cut generously. Shirt collars should not be round. Select collars with points that lead away from the face at a slight angle, but never a spread collar. Short Men Jacket length is critical. If it's too short, it will cut the body in half. Too long will make the legs appear shorter than they are. Shoulders of the short man's jacket can be squared, raising the eye farther from the floor. Trousers should be tapered at the bottom a bit more than normal. Allow for extra length on cuffed trousers and avoid excessive fullness. Tall Men Horizontal lines should be accentuated to stress breadth. Fabrics should be unfinished worsteds, tweeds and other bulky materials. Jacket should be worn on the long side with a loose waist and extra width in the shoulders. Trousers should always be cuffed.
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